Shower remodels ยท Los Angeles
Shower remodeling, built from the membrane out
A shower is a small room that gets soaked every day. What makes one last is mostly invisible: the slope of the pan, the membrane behind the tile and the way every penetration is sealed.
The parts of a shower
What we replace, and why each layer matters
A shower remodel replaces the enclosure down to the framing. Here is what goes back in, from the bottom up.
- Shower pan
- The floor of the shower, sloped to the drain. It can be a traditional mortar bed over a liner, a bonded-membrane system over a foam or mortar base, or a prefabricated tray. The choice depends on the drain type, the floor structure and the tile you want.
- Waterproofing
- A continuous sheet or liquid-applied membrane over the backer board, lapped into the pan and sealed at every seam, corner, niche and valve. Tile and grout are not waterproof on their own; the membrane does that job.
- Valve
- The mixing valve inside the wall. Pressure-balance valves hold a steady temperature when someone flushes a toilet elsewhere; thermostatic valves hold a set temperature and usually allow separate volume control. Both are forms of anti-scald protection.
- Niches and benches
- Built into the framing and waterproofed as part of the enclosure, with sloped sills so water doesn't sit.
- Tile
- Porcelain, ceramic, glass or natural stone on the walls, with a slip-conscious tile on the floor. Grout choice follows the tile and how much maintenance you're willing to do.
- Glass
- A door, a fixed panel or a full enclosure. Frameless glass needs flat, plumb walls and a precise curb to fit well.
We explain the layers in more detail in bathroom waterproofing basics.
Signs your shower needs more than new grout
- Grout that cracks or darkens again soon after it has been redone
- Loose or hollow-sounding tiles near the floor or around the valve
- Staining or soft drywall on the other side of the shower wall
- A musty smell that returns no matter how often you clean
- Water that pools in one corner rather than running to the drain
- A valve that swings hot and cold, or a leak you can hear inside the wall
Most of these point to a pan or membrane problem. Regrouting or re-caulking may hide the symptom for a while, but water keeps getting into the wall. Replacing the shower down to the framing is the only way to see and fix what's behind it.
How it goes
Our shower remodel process
Look behind the surface
At the consultation we check the wall on the other side, the floor around the curb and, where there is a crawlspace or ceiling below, what's visible from underneath. It tells us how far the damage might go before we open anything.
Fix the size, drain and valve
We confirm the shower footprint, whether the drain stays centered or moves to a linear drain at one wall, the valve and trim, and where the niche and any bench sit relative to the tile layout.
Demolish and repair
Tile, backer and pan come out. Rotted framing and subfloor are replaced, and walls are straightened so the glass and tile will sit true.
Rough-in, pan and membrane
The valve and supply lines go in, the pan is built to slope, the membrane goes over everything, and the pan is flood-tested before any tile goes down.
Tile, trim and glass
Tile is set and grouted, trim installed, and glass measured from the finished walls, since glass fabricators need actual dimensions, not the drawings.
Niches, benches and glass
These are the details people live with every day, so they deserve as much thought as the tile.
Niches work best on a wall that isn't exterior and doesn't hide the plumbing, sized to the tile so the cuts land cleanly. One wide niche is usually more useful than two small ones.
Benches can be a built-in seat, a floating shelf or a simple ledge for shaving legs. A bench changes the waterproofing, so it has to be decided early.
Glass ranges from a single fixed panel to a hinged door with return panels. Thickness, hardware finish, low-iron glass and coatings all affect the price, which we cover in frameless shower glass cost factors.
Showers in Los Angeles homes and buildings
Older mortar-bed showers. Many pre-war and mid-century showers sit on a thick mortar bed over a lead or tar-paper liner. They can last a very long time, but when the liner fails, the whole pan has to come out, and so does the tile that sits on it.
Condo showers. In multi-unit buildings, a leak goes straight into a neighbor's ceiling. HOAs often ask for specific waterproofing, sound underlayment, contractor insurance certificates and restricted work hours. Check your building's rules early; our condo remodeling page covers how we plan around them.
Coast versus valley. Near the ocean, the marine layer keeps bathrooms damp for longer, so good ventilation and a properly ducted fan matter as much as the membrane. Inland, hard water leaves mineral deposits on glass and fixtures, which is worth thinking about when you choose a finish and glass coating.
Water efficiency. California's fixture standards are strict, and a well-chosen WaterSense-labeled showerhead gives a far better shower than older low-flow models. Multiple heads or body sprays need planning so the whole system stays within what your city allows; confirm current requirements with your building department.
Budget
Cost factors for a shower remodel
Hidden damage
A shower that has leaked for years often needs framing or subfloor repair. It's the one variable nobody can fully price until the tile is off.
Drain and pan type
Keeping a center drain in place costs less than moving to a linear drain, and a prefab tray is usually faster than a custom-sloped mortar bed.
Tile size and layout
Small mosaics and patterned layouts take far more labor than large, simple field tile. Natural stone adds sealing and careful handling.
Glass and hardware
A single fixed panel is simpler than a door with returns. Heavier glass, custom notches and specialty finishes add cost.
See how our estimates are put together for the full picture.
Related work
- Curbless and walk-in showersLower thresholds, linear drains and open glass
- Replacing a tub with a showerWhen a tub isn't earning its space
- Tile installationPorcelain, zellige and stone for walls and floors
- Shower work in Santa MonicaCoastal condos and mid-century homes
- Remodels in PasadenaPeriod homes with original tile showers
Questions
Shower remodel FAQ
Can you replace just the shower without redoing the whole bathroom?
Yes. The shower can be taken out and rebuilt on its own. We protect the rest of the room and plan the transitions so new tile meets old flooring cleanly.
What is the difference between a pressure-balance and a thermostatic valve?
A pressure-balance valve reacts to changes in water pressure to keep the temperature steady. A thermostatic valve holds a set temperature directly and often lets you control volume separately. Both help protect against scalding; thermostatic valves generally cost more.
Is a prefabricated shower pan as good as a tiled mortar bed?
Either can perform well when it's installed correctly with a continuous membrane. A tiled pan gives more freedom in size and drain placement; a prefab tray is faster and has a consistent slope. The right choice depends on the room.
How do you know the waterproofing works before tiling?
We flood-test the pan by plugging the drain and holding water in it, then check for any drop or leak before tile goes down.
Do shower remodels need a permit?
Replacing a valve or moving plumbing commonly requires one, while some like-for-like work may not. Rules vary by city, so confirm with LADBS or your local building department and, in a condo, your HOA.
Call us
Talk to us about your bathroom
Call and tell us what isn’t working in the room. We’ll talk through scope, materials and timing, then set up a visit to measure and see the plumbing and structure.
Call for a consultation
(213) 566-7696Open daily, 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM
- Tell us whether it’s a house, condo or ADU
- Describe which bathroom and what you’d like to change
- We arrange a visit to measure and look at the room