Walk-in showers ยท Los Angeles
Walk-in showers, planned for the room you have
An open shower looks effortless when it's done well. Getting there takes a floor that slopes the right way, a drain in the right place and glass that keeps water where it belongs.
Curbless or low curb?
A walk-in shower is any shower you step into without a tub wall or a high dam. There are two ways to build one. A curbless shower has no threshold at all: the bathroom floor continues into the shower and slopes gently to a drain. A low-curb shower keeps a short curb, usually a single step you barely notice, which is simpler to build and more forgiving with water.
Both can look open and uncluttered. The difference is mostly in what happens under the floor, and that depends heavily on how your house is built.
| Consideration | Curbless | Low curb |
|---|---|---|
| Threshold | None; floor is continuous | A low step at the entry |
| Subfloor work | Shower area usually has to be recessed so the slope starts at floor level | Often built on the existing floor height |
| Drain | Linear drain common; placement is critical | Center or linear drain both work |
| Water containment | Relies on slope, drain position and glass | Curb gives a physical backstop |
| Accessibility | Easiest for walkers, wheelchairs and aging in place | Easy for most people, still a small step |
| Relative cost | Typically higher because of structural and drain work | Typically lower |
Slab or raised foundation: it changes the approach
A curbless floor needs to drop inside the shower so it can slope down to the drain while the bathroom floor stays level. How that drop is achieved is the central question.
Raised foundations. Many older Los Angeles houses sit on a raised foundation with a crawlspace. The joists under the shower can often be lowered, notched within safe limits or reframed so the subfloor sits lower. This is structural work and has to be planned properly, but access from below makes it manageable.
Slab-on-grade. Post-war tract homes and many newer houses sit on a concrete slab. Here the slab is cut and recessed at the shower, or the rest of the bathroom floor is built up slightly to create the difference. Both are workable; the cut-slab route is more invasive.
Upper floors and condos. On a second floor, joist size and direction decide what's possible. In a condo, cutting into the structural floor is often not allowed, so a low-curb design or a built-up floor may be the practical answer.
Components
The details that make an open shower work
Linear drains
A long, narrow drain lets the floor slope in one direction instead of four, so you can use large-format tile across the whole shower. Placing it at the back wall keeps the entry dry; placing it at the entry catches water before it leaves. Each has trade-offs we'll walk through.
Floor slope
Enough fall to move water quickly, not so much that the floor feels tilted. With a curbless design, the slope also has to be continuous with the bathroom floor, so the tile layout is drawn before framing starts.
Glass panels
A single fixed panel is the classic walk-in look. Its length and the width of the opening decide how much spray escapes. A short return panel or a pivoting deflector can help in tighter rooms.
Waterproofing beyond the shower
With no curb, water can reach the bathroom floor. We usually extend the membrane past the shower opening, and sometimes across the whole floor, so a splash never becomes a leak.
Valve and head placement
Putting the valve near the entry lets you turn the water on without getting soaked. A handheld on a slide bar or a fixed head aimed away from the opening keeps spray inside.
Ventilation
Open showers share air with the whole room. A properly sized, ducted fan on a timer or humidity sensor matters more here than with an enclosed stall, especially near the coast where the marine layer keeps rooms damp.
Splash management
How big does a walk-in shower need to be?
A door-free shower needs enough depth that water falls well inside the glass. In a narrow room, that can mean a door or a return panel is the better choice, and we'll tell you if so. Some practical rules we follow:
- Aim the showerhead along the length of the glass, not toward the opening
- Keep the drain on the far side of the spray from the entry where the layout allows
- Make the entry wide enough to walk in comfortably, but not wider than it needs to be
- Choose a floor tile with good slip resistance, since the whole floor may get wet
- Plan towel hooks and a bench where you can reach them without stepping out of the dry zone
Cost factors
- Curbless vs curb
- Recessing the floor, whether through joists or a slab, is usually the largest added item.
- Drain type
- Linear drains cost more than center drains, and tile-in grates add labor.
- Waterproofing area
- Extending the membrane across the room adds material and time, but it is well spent.
- Glass
- One fixed panel is the simplest; returns, deflectors and heavier glass cost more.
- Tile
- Large-format porcelain is fast to set on a single-plane slope; mosaics suit multi-direction slopes but take longer.
Walk-in showers as part of a larger plan
Many walk-in showers replace a tub. If that's your situation, our page on tub-to-shower conversions covers the drain and wall changes involved. If the goal is long-term mobility, a curbless shower is one part of a wider plan that also covers grab-bar blocking, seating and clearances; see accessible bathroom remodeling. And in a primary suite, a walk-in shower often sits beside a freestanding tub as part of a larger primary bath remodel.
We build walk-in showers throughout Los Angeles, including in Beverly Hills, Glendale and Culver City.
Ideas
From the journal
- Showers & tubs
Luxury walk-in shower ideas, detail by detail
Curbless entries, linear drains, stone slabs versus zellige, bench and niche placement, thermostatic valves, steam and low-iron glass: the details that make a walk-in shower.
- Showers & tubs
Bathroom waterproofing basics
Tile and grout are not waterproof. Here is what actually keeps water out of the walls: membranes, pans, backer boards, flood tests, and the weak points to watch.
Questions
Walk-in shower FAQ
Can any bathroom have a curbless shower?
Many can, but not all. It depends on the foundation, the joists, the room's size and, in condos, what the building allows. When a fully curbless floor isn't practical, a low curb gives a similar open look.
Will water get all over the bathroom floor?
Not if the slope, drain location, glass and showerhead are planned together. We also extend the waterproofing beyond the shower so the occasional splash is harmless.
Do I need a shower door on a walk-in shower?
Not always. A fixed panel works when the shower is deep enough. In narrower spaces a door or a return panel keeps spray contained and makes the room more comfortable in cooler months.
Is a linear drain necessary for a curbless shower?
It isn't the only option, but it makes a curbless shower much easier because the floor slopes in a single plane. That also allows large-format tile.
Does recessing the floor require a permit?
Structural changes to joists or cutting a slab often do, along with plumbing changes. Confirm current requirements with LADBS or your city's building department, and with your HOA if you're in a condo.
Call us
Talk to us about your bathroom
Call and tell us what isn’t working in the room. We’ll talk through scope, materials and timing, then set up a visit to measure and see the plumbing and structure.
Call for a consultation
(213) 566-7696Open daily, 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM
- Tell us whether it’s a house, condo or ADU
- Describe which bathroom and what you’d like to change
- We arrange a visit to measure and look at the room